Good Bill, “Made by” Claw

If I know the principle of the “made in”, that of the “made by” – consisting of making his creations by various workshops chosen on the basis of their sp cialit – me was unfamiliar so far. However, this process demanding may well offer the notion of pr-t – bear a new density, a new interest. In any case, that’s what inspires me the claw of good invoice, that has made this concept its cornerstone…

 

Tuesday, January 12, trade show Pitti Uomo in Florence. By touching the Japanese cotton shirts of the claw of good invoice, then flicking the Italian wool cloth of his overcoat, I prove a curious sensation of well-being. As if the quality of the raw material res I feel so under my fingers was broadcasting the sweet promise long aging nicely, falling perfectly. What make me want to know more about that which is behind these pi these classic but contemporary finishes ch t and timeless allure. Meeting with D borah Neuberg, the creative evolution of the claw of good invoice cr…

Hello D borah, what is your background?

I started working at s Herm as a product manager in Department silk, then I went to work for the Etam group Shanghai. I have d missionn this last post and I started think about starting my own project.

How did you get the idea of creating good invoice?

Home s Herm, I had the opportunity to work with exceptional craftsmen, small workshops subcontractors who r realize extraordinary work for larger homes. I t e sensibilis this know-how and I wanted to build a project that puts forward workshops and above all quality. In fact, I wanted to embody new product in its rialit mast: mati res, supplies, details, manufacturing. a seemed to be important in an area where the image had taken over the product. I started looking for workshops in France, with a strong local presence and a tradition of manufacturing on specific know-how: mesh, shirt, tie and tricot, pants… with the idea of a male line of pi these simple, sober and contemporary, with a choice of mati res natural and authentic. I was also very s e inspired by the English brand S.E.H Kelly that fascinated me.

How des do you proc for creating your mod the? Sketch? Flat drawing?

I do a sketch and works also leave these vintage Visual inspirations and pi. I show this sketch and this folder of inspiration my mod list that works a first boss. We get a first canvas is refined as and extent of fittings. Then we go up the prototype in the final matter. Still in the idea to show the manufacturing home of good invoice process, we have achieved all our linings in Web of patronage from the 7 Edition that you saw at the Pitti.

Why in the “editions” rather than “collections”?

Of the editions because DBF proposed IP these made to last and I want to enroll in one of market “mode”. The idea is to keep the mod the season after season in the clinant d s in mati res news or with new details.

Why do human?

I always pr f r the menswear: its material, its technical, qualitative and timeless t c.

What is your customer type?

A sensitive man that locker room and the quality of the mati res, finishes… This can also be a man in the classic taste than the sharp dressing room.

I have the impression that your pi these may very well be port are by women. Is this really the case?

YES! I also dream to d decline all the pi these man in women’s version, I have already started, it is available our showroom and we make them demand. The idea is to adapt patronage a made woman, keeping the spirit of menswear and with my mati m res, workshops and manufacturing details.

How are calculation s the price of your pi these?

Prices are s calculation starting from the cost of food, liners, and the FA we. If we were to apply the coefficients of the classic brands, we would be at the level of the large houses, which is impossible for a young brand despite the quality of our product. So it is a permanent compromise between the quality of what we offer and the market prices. When we look at some brands made are in Eastern Europe with a mati res standard, we are sometimes only 15 or 20% more expensive, despite the costs much greater: mati res Japanese, buttons in Horn real, manufacturing by workshops local French work pushed on cuts… It is a particular positioning which is as said me a specialist am yank “the confidential on which niche brand gives the customer the maximum value for minimum cost”. But it’s an analysis of initiative that is not always understood out of the people who interested closely to the product, fortunately in the menswear this community is part.

Do you have any difficulties finding distributors?

Very nice shops we have now rep s r, but it’s a locker room reserved for now connoisseurs and I hope that we can further do know.

Best memory with good invoice?

All times o I was able to spend time with people I admire in this tier m. All times o I see someone wearing one of our pi these or simply who appreciate my work. I also offered a J.W.Anderson for Christmas sweater and there ador, it’s interesting to see someone who r invented fashion likes to wear IP these simple, sober and quality.

Your biggest entrepreneur re gal?

The funding. Cash cycles are difficult finance, more growing up, they are important, and we still need to continue investing to develop the brand.

Are you confident for the future?

YES!

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