It is always fun to see the frenzied passion of girls for shoes, which pairs can number in the dozens. But if the male is often more “reasonable” in this area, there remains much we love Savate but in a different way.
For indeed, the male shoe uses a special expertise and is often the detail of an outfit, one that can change everything.
But how to choose? The offer is bloated, which requires a small item to navigate!
There are three criteria on which to you to estimate the quality of a shoe.They are hard to prioritize, ideally to combine them. The most easy to look is the leather of the shoe, because usually the defects are visible. Further, the study of the seams and of the sole, and therefore of the production .Without being an expert, some “little tricks” used to recognize the type of sewn, the quality of work … Do not hesitate to call a vendor, hoping that he is competent to inquire about the product! And finally the style of the shoe will be addressed in the form of mini glossary of the different major families of footwear.
Before going into the details of quality criteria, talking price.
It is very difficult to give a threshold, but say that a good quality shoe costs a minimum of 300 €. Leather is an expensive material, installation of a shoe takes time and Europe (France, Italy, UK …) are the best in the field. A shoe produced in these countries there is a certain cost, proportionate to the expertise and quality manufacturing. That said attention to this last point, because the market trend is the increase in price and down in quality, especially in big names … race to the margin!
Finally, there is the custom shoes, the price is often the € 1,000 threshold, but are exceptional pieces.
The idea is to gauge the price of a pair in terms of its quality, and not the reverse.
Soft, beautiful to the eye and comfortable to wear, it is really central to the choice of footwear. The beautiful male shoe is often crafted from calf to its qualities of soft but durable leather. Aniline finish or corrected grain, the material will be slightly shiny and beautifully ages. Boxcalf finish, the material will be very bright and soft, less natural but equally elegant.
As informed readers, you may notice the first glance the beautiful quality of a skin, which are the main characteristics.
At the sight, the leather should instantly look “beautiful”
Regular grain: this is what characterizes the visible part of the leather, its “drawing”, which should be as regular as possible. Some calfskin shoes grained leave appear grainy than the others, which will facilitate the quality of expertise: a large irregular grain is immediately.
Little or no natural defects. The leather had the same life as the beast who has generously and in good heart donated. And can appear certain faults related to the life of the animal, such as bites or veins. The first form a small halo, the latter a relief irregular furrow in some places of the skin.
In the same vein, the station hollow leather! This is a poor quality of skin tends to sag and deform, causing the appearance of small “wrinkles” on the shoe. They are identifiable from the purchase easier for not having been worn, the shoes do not have wrinkles associated with their port.
Consistent color. At purchase, unless particular style is more effective to focus on a skin which dyeing seems well done and consistent. This will not prevent that, subsequently, the leather patina and starts to become more irregular in color level. On a quality leather, it only brings character to the shoe.
The touch, a sensual and natural texture.
Meekness is a reliable indicator of the quality of a leather such as calf or lamb. You should barely feel the grain (except in the case of a grained finish), knowing that some leathers even closer to the smooth “baby skin” (sorry for the picture!).
For leather suede / nubuck or even sheepskin, touch resembles that of a peach skin or velvet. This is due to the fact that leather is sanded, matt texture offering this inimitable.
Overall, the contact with the leather should make you feel a pleasant texture and relatively natural: if the material seems you cold and stiff as if it were cardboard is that the leather has undergone many treatments due to material first of poor quality!
This is the first review by the leather that your sense of aesthetics will be the most sought. The instructions given above are the basis for judging the quality of the skin, but trust your “sense of beauty” to select a beautiful material.
We see here is the most technical part, and often the most difficult to appraise. Start by evoking the type of mounting of the sole, which is not a criterion in itself but it is good to know. We then speak of “stitched” refers to the technique by which the leather of the shoe is assembled to the sole.
The two stars of the market: Goodyear and Blake.
The welted, commonly known as Goodyear, assumes a double seam. The outside of the shoe leather (stem) is sewn to a leather band, welt. The latter is then itself sewn to the sole by small dots, thereby forming an intermediary between the outside of the shoe and the sole. Resulting tightness of the shoe soling and easy when the tread is worn! It also has the reputation of being extremely durable and ensure a longer life to the shoe.
You will easily notice the presence of the famous welt, this famous band that goes around the shoe and which is dotted stitches.
The Blake stitching is simpler than the Goodyear because it is a simple seam of the rod between the insole and outsole. It has the disadvantage of not being waterproof, especially if the soles are perforated before being sewn, because then the risk is to have a bigger hole than the thread that let water through. However, this technique allows for a thinner shoe that Goodyear and is really comfortable! Often considered as a method of lower quality, yet it is used in the manufacture of certain luxury shoes, knowing that it is for example the only method used by Berluti. Just saying .
To recognize this, just look inside the shoe to see the stitches hidden under the insole, which is a thin sole calf that you need to raise. These points will be invisible from the outside
Know then that the two are the most common and are the subject of a true doctrinal tear. If you are looking shoes for everyday even rain, lean for Goodyear, otherwise prefer the comfort of Blake. Matter of choice!
1 Criterion of manufacturing: Seams and buttress.
Seams are the essence of the shoe as you understand that guarantee its strength. Therefore this is one of the details absolutely essential to judge the quality of a pair of shoes. The basic rule is consistency seams and their delicacy, which can be seen quite easily. The more points visible to the centimeter, over the seam will be of good quality: the minimum is 5-6 points centimeter.
The buttress is a sewn leather piece on the back of the shoe that keeps the shape of the shoe at the heel, and whose strength is crucial. If you press the back of the boot at the seam, you will be dealing with a highly rigid material that does not deform, especially closer to the sole. One risk to this level is that the buttress hurts the first time you wear the shoe. Having said this defect often corrects after a few ports.
2Nd criterion: The sole
Very often we will find the beautiful shoes indoor and outdoor leather sole.Why that? Is it really important to have the leather in the shoe? In this case, it is not aesthetic but comfort. The leather is soft and breathable, more than can be rubber or gum. Walking with a flexible leather sole will be more pleasant, with the added assurance of a healthier shoe inside.
Several tips to confirm.
First you must “find” the strength of the sole, absolutely essential. When handling the shoe, notice the stiffness of the sole by bending slightly: no wrinkles should appear.
The sole should be proportionate to the shoe and especially not be shorter! This mark quite easily by observing the profile shoe: the sole may obviously be too short for the upper of the shoe, which is unsightly but is most likely to tear the leather.
It is also important to pay attention to the scope of the shoe, that is, how she stands when laid flat. Both ends of the boot must be slightly raised, at the toe and the heel when the latter rests without shaper. To test this, you can press the back part of the shoe: If the front does not touch the ground when the heel is flat is that the shoe is poorly designed.
Finally, the design of the shoe is of course essential for it is he who will “sublimate” all the work done upstream. That said it is a very subjective element, the essential being that the shoe YOU like it anyway.
It is however possible to evoke the different styles of shoes that is found in all good shops.
The derby and the Richelieu.
These are dress shoes with excellence. They are mentioned together because in truth they are very similar, the main difference between the two being located at the lacing. The laces of a brogue come closer to the edges of a single piece of leather that has just been cut to allow donning the boot. The laces derbies come approximate 2 pieces of different leather sewn on shoes (neighborhoods): threading is easier because the opening is wider.Accordingly oxfords are often thinner than the derbies and a little more dressy, the latter also frequently made of suede, less dressed than boxcalf.
The derbies are interesting for a hybrid use jeans / dress pants. It is, in short, the style of shoes in which to invest when not wearing the costume only occasionally, while oxfords perfectly complement a formal outfit.
The desert boots.
This shoe has been democratized along the chinos, it complements perfectly.It has the distinction of being any curve and to have small laces. Montante principle, the desert is usually manufactures plain Sweden with a crepe rubber sole. The advantage of this style is casual comfort while staying a minimum fine: they fit perfectly with a casual linen pants (Chino was said, but also cargo, navy / beige), or even jeans worn with a polo or shirt in linen / cotton blend.
For a long time the rangers was really banish the shoe, combined with Gothic and Tshirts “Korn”. However, they were delivered to date being reinterpreted by brands such as Gucci and Balmain. The sole has lost its thickness, the line has been refined, and the material is ennobled! Result: a shoe style trendy worn with jeans / trousers “put” on the shoe … finally for how long? Because their use is limited!
This is one of the major trends of recent years in the small world of men’s shoe. The boots seduced by its appearance both stylish and elegant. This allows him to perfectly agree with elegant dark denim fabric, as with a dressed in flannel pants. With elastic sides to allow the thread or closure, the boots is today revisited all the sauces, the Richelieu mind with lace motifs stitched in mind destroy with aged leather. There will be something for everyone with a hybrid shoe made from a boxcalf or nubuck calf.
“Fashion is an eternal”. This could not be truer when talking moccasins, grandpa shoe by excellence yet gently handed to the taste of the day. Hermès and Gucci have always offered shoes, but the Italian company puts emphasis on it these days declining the shoe from different materials, latex total crocodile leather. Difficult to be objective about a style that always appears totally anachronistic, despite a marked return to the market.
Bonus Point: maintenance.
So there it is, your beautiful shoes enthroned around you, and you almost already forgotten the price. But he’ll have to provide a final effort to maintain leather and above the sole. To do list.
The upper of the boot will be the single most “alive” that will require special attention.
Waterproofing must be made regardless of the leather, but especially not with any product. Unfortunately, consumer products are quite harmful General for leather, according to my cobbler ” The kiwi & Co products are great for Eram shoes or Halle anyway because the leather will have a longer life to mounting of the shoe. In contrast to the beautiful shoe, high waterproofing distri will kill the leather by preventing breathing because they spread the silicone on the skin. The consequences, they are leather creaking and especially a great difficulty to feed thereafter, impregnating the leather is made impossible by the silicone . ” Ouch.
What to do? Investing in Rolls luxury shoe care products: Sapphire Gold Medal. Their waterproofing “sapphire INVULNER” ensure perfect sealing for a reasonable price around 10 €.
Feeding the leather is also very important, especially when it undergoes cold or hot. A lick of polish makes it possible to restore flexibility to the leather, protecting it and also to recolor. Wherever possible, we must focus colored polishes that will not leave traces unlike a colorless wax which can leave some white markings. You will of course buy based on the properties of your leather … Nubuck also require regular brushing with a special brush, because unlike the smooth leather that is slipping with age, the suede is fine as long as it skin retains its appearance fishery as the first day!
And finally there is always the terrible case of heavy rain, snow etc. First, even if the leather does not like water, well protected you can wear it on a rainy day without fucking! This should not become a habit, but if you have an event that requires you to wear beautiful shoes, the rain does not make you upset all your plans.
Well, say you walked accidentally in a pool with beautiful slippers: they risk becoming very dark and, necessarily, sweaty. In this case when you return you will need to dry but without rushing: the slower drying, the leather will better! The ideal is to put the shoe tree to prevent them deform because the wet leather can quickly blistered in places and see its modified structure.If you have no shoe tree, stuff them with newspaper. In all cases, especially PAS exposure to heat (sunlight, radiators, fire …), and wait patiently for the leather dry, after which you can spend a brush on the leather to restore its shine.
Shortly after the purchase, it will be important to put a pad under the sole, which will protect the shoe and above all allow it to be less slippery. Before, luxury department Shoes used leather goods if it worked it was not necessary to put a runner from the start … But that was before.
You can also pose an iron on the welt at the front to protect it, although this is not essential. These operations must be renewed each time the sole raised will be damaged. Obviously it will be feasible a greater number of times on a Goodyear on a Blake. Around 20 €, you have a very good work done with skating.
Here is essentially what can be said to choose a good shoe and maintain!
Feel free to send us your comments and other boards that have not been addressed here.
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